„My boat originally had a Nautic Boiler 16L installed; the model that has a galvanized interior. This finally failed, and after careful measurements, I determined that the 20L modern model would fit just fine in the same space. Installation was easy, and the Maestrini barb fitting sold by SVB went on easily with plenty of PTFE tape to prevent leaks. New brackets are made of thinner stainless than the one from 20 years ago, but they seem perfectly adequate for the task at hand.“
SVB recommends that you secure your unit with a 10 amp / 220 volt fuse. The current-carrying cable should consist of a braided 2.5 mm² cable, which is not only guided through the bilge but also installed in such a way that the cable won't break under vibration.
The hot water boiler is connected via a bypass to the internal cooling circuit of the motor boat. Heat-resistant hoses should be used, so that they are not damaged by the temperature of the cooling water. In the main line between the bypass entry and exit, a reduction valve is to be used to regulate the amount of current going through the hot water heater. It is recommended that the hose is installed in a such a manner that it enters the heat exchanger of the hot water heater before the drain valve. In the event that servicing or repair of the heat exchanger is needed, it can be easily emptied. Make sure that the cooling water temperature does not exceed 85°C. If this should be the case, a mixing valve must be installed. The mixing valve works automatically. You just have to turn the knob in order to reach temperatures between 38 and 65°C with a tolerance of +/- 7 degrees. Reliability is ensured with this device. The thermostat measures the temperature and adjusts itself, depending on the supply of hot and cold water.