Synthetic teak decking from ISITEEK looks just like a real teak deck. Isiteek is made of composite materials and is 100% recyclable. Isiteek decking has an anti-slip coating that provides the best grip in both dry and wet conditions.more information
- The synthetic do-it-yourself alternative to a teak deck -
Isiteek offers many advantages over a classic teak deck. This teak alternative is made from composite materials and does not require a single tree to be felled. The material is 100% recyclable. What's more, Isiteek leaves no holes on your deck and is extremely easy to clean. Isiteek's anti-slip surface provides perfect grip even when wet. Isiteek is stain resistant, even stubborn spots such as oil, petrol, red wine, fish blood etc. can be easily removed with soap and water. Unlike a real teak deck, Isiteek is UV resistant and it won't grey or fade over time. Another advantage: the material reduces noise. Isiteek provides a material guarantee of 3 years.
To cut and apply Isiteek, you will need a metal ruler, a sharp knife, some weights, masking tape, a compass, glue, a cartridge gun and a workbench with a straight edge.
When unpacking Isiteek, make sure that the working temperature is above 20° C. This makes Isiteek easier to work with. For best results, roll Isiteek the other way round so that the top is on the outside. Leave it rolled like this or with lengths cut in a warm room for at least 24 hours before using.
First create a paper template, then cut the individual strips slightly longer than the template and lay them out on it. If you want to create several surfaces between which the joints should form a line, make these surfaces in one piece whenever possible, then cut them to the approximate size of each template.
Place the first Isiteek strip against a straight edge and use a weight to hold it in place. Cut the tip of the Stelmax Tube at a slight angle. Gently squeeze the tube to apply a level layer of Stelmax to the groove of the joint. Place a new Isiteek strip next to the first one and press it evenly against it. Make sure that both strips are properly bonded. Use masking tape to hold the strips together and several weights to keep the panels level. In the meantime, keep checking to make sure that strips are still straight and haven't bent when adding new ones. This can happen when too much pressure is applied to one area.
If you have used the right amount of glue, a small amount will squeeze out from between the strips. Let the glue dry for about 15 minutes and then use a sharp knife to shave off any excess. Any adhesive that is still remaining can be removed with 40-60 grit sandpaper. Always sand along the joints. For hard-to-reach places, e.g. on the edges of the panels, you can simply use a small piece of rolled up emery paper.
The finished glued panel can be moved after 15-20 minutes if work is carried out at above 20° C. At colder temperatures between 16 and 18 degrees you will have to wait at least one hour. If you do not want the panel to have side edges, place the template on the panel and mark the dimensions all around on the panel. Then use a sharp knife to cut the panel to the exact shape. Cut slightly outside the line and remove the remaining mm with a sanding block. Turn the panel over and sand the back with 40 grit sandpaper. You can now lay the deck covering.